Bringing you our next story from the Himalayas to keep you engrossed indoors as we enter the extension period of the lockdown in India which is a crucial phase in fighting the Covid-19 pandemic.
This is a story from our guests and editor on their experiences in the last decade during the Zanskar multi-adventure expedition we’ve been running since the early 2000’s:
“Life begins at the end of your comfort zone” – This quote stands true when you decide to plan a trip to Ladakh trip. Whether it is rafting in the thundering Zanskar river or trekking to one of its many high-altitude valleys, adventure in Ladakh always starts at Leh. Wandering in its streets transports you to 13th century central Asia.
Our trip began after an inspiring early morning flight over the Great Himalayan range with the sun reaching out to hit the mountaintops. An hour later one is nearly skimming Spituk Gompa on one of the toughest landings in the country. Brown & barren at 11,500 feet above sea level – Leh makes you feel lightheaded and tired. It takes about a day to acclimatize with adequate rest and maybe, a pill against altitude sickness.
When you reach Leh, you will be welcomed by fluttering prayer flags and brightly colored gompas. The Indus River meanders through there and sets a beautiful scene along with the rocky ridges and tiny mud-brick houses.
Our trip began after an inspiring early morning flight over the Great Himalayan range with the sun reaching out to hit the mountaintops. An hour later one is nearly skimming Spituk Gompa on one of the toughest landings in the country. Brown & barren at 11,500 feet above sea level – Leh makes you feel lightheaded and tired. It takes about a day to acclimatize with adequate rest and maybe, a pill against altitude sickness.
When you reach Leh, you will be welcomed by fluttering prayer flags and brightly colored gompas. The Indus River meanders through there and sets a beautiful scene along with the rocky ridges and tiny mud-brick houses.
Ladakh’s Zanskar valley takes its name from the Zanskar river and our destination for this adventure. The valley cuts itself a deep gorge through the Zanskar range, traveling through solid rock, first north then east, finally joining the Indus river at Nemu. This 150km long river originates from the high altitude Plateau of Sarchu at the border of Himachal Pradesh and Jammu and Kashmir.
The three-day ride from Leh to the put-in point on the Doda River traverses miles of valleys, prehistoric glaciers, the villages of Lamayuru, Kargil and the 14,500 foot high Pensi La pass. A large part of the trip is along the `Lion river’ the Indus, from which our country gets its name. Only a handful of villages, with houses made of mud-walls and dry grass and sticks for insulation are seen.
We arrive at the banks of the Stod, a tributary of the Zanskar. The weather is clear and the water looks inviting. Our group is a perfect mix of Indian and international guests. It’s a friendly bunch – while many have come on their own, they will leave with new friends and memories. The bonding on these rafting trips is instantaneous – the combination of being out of your comfort zone, in an unfamiliar and wild environment and among like-minded strangers is potent.
The first two days hold no surprises, except the fascinating landscape. The wind has eroded the river bank into steep, sandy columns that look like they could collapse any minute. All around, the mountains with their incredible formations and striations are an ever-changing kaleidoscope of colours.
At night, we camp under the stars on meadows flanking the river. By the third day, the pace begins to pick up abruptly as the river enters the Zanskar canyon, with its soaring walls of multi-hued stone. The rapids here become increasingly bigger and more frequent, and commands from Sanjay, our guide, come fast and thick as we encounter several Grade III rapids. There is not a living thing in sight and we have no way back if we run into trouble.
With contributions from Chirag Sadhnani, Stephen Cunliffe, Ranjan Pal, Vaibhav Kala & Sumeru Bahuguna
